Discover how to grow lettuce year-round and enjoy a continuous supply of fresh, nutritious greens with our comprehensive guide! Lettuce is a staple in our diets, but have you ever considered how to grow it yourself?
Lettuce stands out as a favorite garden plant due to its ease of cultivation, nutritional benefits, and delicious flavor. It’s no wonder it’s a top choice for many gardeners.
Whether you have space in your garden, a sunny windowsill, or room among your flowers, lettuce can thrive in various settings.
By adhering to essential gardening practices like ensuring adequate water, providing some shade, and planting in stages, you can achieve a steady harvest of lettuce throughout the year. Let’s dive into the different types of lettuce and find the ideal variety for your needs!
Lettuce: Essential Care Guide
- Common Name: Lettuce
- Scientific Name: Lactuca sativa
- Days to Harvest: Varies by cultivar and leaf size
- Light Requirements: Partial sun to shade
- Watering Needs: Regularly, about 1 inch per week, or more in hot weather
- Soil Type: Well-draining, rich in humus
- Fertilizer: Use nitrogen-rich options like fish or seaweed-based liquids, or alfalfa meal. Regular compost applications are also beneficial.
- Pests: Watch out for aphids, thrips, flea beetles, cutworms, root knot nematodes, and larger animals such as rabbits, woodchucks, and deer.
- Diseases: Be aware of fungal issues like sclerotinia, bacterial infections such as pseudomonas, downy mildew, and aphid-borne diseases like lettuce necrotic yellows or lettuce mosaic virus.
Best Lettuce Varieties to Grow
There is a wide variety of lettuce types to choose from. Whether you favor the classic iceberg lettuce (crispheads) or a more flavorful leafy green, you’ll find a range of lettuce seeds to suit your preferences. Let’s explore the various types and their characteristics to help you select the best seeds for your home garden.
1. Loose Leaf Lettuce
Loose leaf lettuce, unlike compact head varieties, does not form a dense, tight head. Instead, you can continuously harvest the outer leaves, allowing for an extended harvest period before needing to pick the entire plant.
Often cultivated for its tender baby leaves, loose leaf lettuce remains flavorful even when fully matured. Its unique shapes and crinkled textures add visual interest to your garden. These lettuces are also ideal for repeated harvests throughout the growing season.
Different Lettuce Varieties and Their Features
- Cavendish: Ready to harvest in 35 days. This variety produces baby leaves with serrated, dark red edges and is resistant to downy mildew.
- Sunset: Takes 50 days to mature. Known for its crinkled green leaves with a striking appearance, this loose leaf variety is slow to bolt.
- Devil’s Ear: Grows in 50 days. It forms large, spreading heads with burgundy-colored margins and a crisp texture.
- Winterwunder: Harvested in 60 days. This lettuce is highly resistant to winter conditions, producing large, light green heads with curly leaves.
- Black Seeded Simpson: Ready in 45 days. This variety is resistant to heat and slow to bolt, with ruffled light green leaves and is well-liked by many gardeners.
- Starfighter: Matures in 52 days. It is resistant to diseases, pests, and heat, and produces medium-sized heads with a good flavor.
- Green Ice: Takes 45 days to mature. This variety features sweet-tasting, large clusters of ruffled green leaves.
- Merlot: Ready in 55 days. It boasts very dark red, crisp leaves and performs well in colder conditions.
- Panisse: Harvested in 48 days. This lettuce has large lime-green leaves and is highly resistant to downy mildew.
- Ashley: Matures in 47 days. This oak leaf variety transitions from bronze to red and has excellent heat tolerance, making it ideal for baby greens or salads.
2. Butterhead Lettuce Varieties
Butterhead lettuce, also known as Boston lettuce, is characterized by its tender leaves with bright green outer layers and a subtly yellow heart. This lettuce is rich in vitamins and minerals and offers a delicious flavor. Most butterhead varieties thrive in cooler climates and require high-quality soil for optimal growth.
- Rex: Matures in 50 days. This variety is well-suited for hydroponic systems, with a slow-bolting nature and resistance to tipburn.
- Yugoslavian Red: Ready in 60 days. Known for its vibrant, multi-colored leaves and a buttery, mild flavor.
- Big Boston: Takes 70 days to grow. An old variety from 1890, featuring large, tender dark green leaves that are perfect for salads.
- Drunken Woman Frizzy Headed: Harvested in 55 days. This variety has mint-green leaves with mahogany-red edges and a unique, savoyed texture.
- Buttercrunch: Matures in 65 days. Produces buttery-flavored heads that reach 6-8 inches in height, with slightly crumpled leaves and a pale heart. It has a long growing season.
- Deer Tongue: Ready in 50 days. Features slightly pointed leaves that grow in a pinwheel pattern, compact in size and slow to bolt.
- Four Seasons: Takes 55 days to mature. An heirloom variety with red-tinged outer leaves and yellow inner leaves.
- May Queen: Harvested in 50 days. This heirloom variety has tender, rose-tinted yellow centers and a sweet, buttery flavor.
- Tom Thumb: Ready in 50 days. A miniature butterhead lettuce that forms small, baseball-sized heads, ideal for salads.
- Summer Bibb: Matures in 43 days. A traditional butterhead variety with light green leaves, often self-blanching in the center.
3. Crisp Head Lettuce Varieties
Crisp head lettuce is commonly recognized from grocery stores, known for its ability to thrive in hot conditions and its thick, crunchy texture. Although it may not be highly nutrient-dense, it provides a good amount of fiber.
- Crispino: Matures in 57 days. This iceberg-type lettuce produces medium-sized, firm heads and is less prone to developing twisted leaves.
- Iceberg Lettuce: Ready in 85 days. The quintessential “salad lettuce” in the U.S., this 1894 heirloom variety is known for its classic crisp texture.
- Pablo: Takes 70 days to grow. A Batavian type with striking bronze-purple leaves on the outside, adding a beautiful touch to salads.
- Joker: Harvested in 60 days. Features wild, wavy leaves in pale green with purple and burgundy highlights, creating a visually appealing head.
- Great Lakes 118: Matures in 75 days. A standard choice for commercial growers, suitable for early spring and late fall cultivation.
- Coastline: Ready in 32 days. A frilly-leaved variety with a crisp texture, ideal for adding visual interest to salads.
- Igloo: Takes 70 days to mature. Known for its rapid growth and heat resistance, it offers a mild flavor and vibrant green color.
- Rouge Grenobloise: Harvested in 55 days. This red-tinted crisphead is cold-hardy and slow to bolt, representing an older lettuce variety.
- Gondar: Matures in 60 days. Produces heads that form early and fill in quickly, resulting in large, crunchy green lettuce.
- Red Iceberg Lettuce: Ready in 80 days. This iceberg variety has reddish-tinted leaves, making it a visually striking addition to any dish.
4. Stem Lettuce
Stem lettuce stands out because it’s grown primarily for its stalk, not its leaves. Often referred to as asparagus lettuce, its leaves are edible but can have a bitter taste. The stem, however, is crisp, sweet, and flavorful when peeled. This type of lettuce is frequently used in Asian dishes and is called “wosun” in China.
- Celtuce: Requires around 75 days to reach maturity. This Chinese variety is cultivated for its delicious stem rather than its leaves.
- Summer 38: Also matures in about 75 days. This Chinese stem lettuce is adaptable to both hot and cold conditions and is known for its resistance to bolting.
5. Cos Lettuce
The term “cos” refers to romaine lettuce and similar varieties. These lettuces are characterized by their upright growth habit, with long, spoon-shaped leaves that form a compact head. They typically have rounded tips and offer a satisfying crunch. Their colors can vary from light green to deep red.
Cos lettuces are more resilient to heat compared to iceberg lettuce and offer greater nutritional benefits. The hearts of these lettuces can serve as a substitute for celery, although they have a distinct taste. Romaine lettuce, a classic for Caesar salads, falls under this category.
The name “cos” is derived from the Greek island of Cos, where romaine and similar types of lettuce are believed to have originated.
- Breen: 45 days. This mini-romaine variety features bronze-red, oval leaves and is slow to mature.
- Little Gem: 50 days. A favored variety known for its exceptionally flavorful romaine hearts.
- Garnet Rose: 74 days. Can be cultivated as either romaine or leaf lettuce with striking garnet-colored, savoyed leaves.
- Truchas: 55 days. Notable for its red-topped leaves with green ribs and veins, offering a non-bitter taste.
- Jericho: 56 days. Highly resistant to bolting and heat, with excellent flavor; a popular romaine type.
- Holon: 55 days. Features a light green color and dense, upright heads; resistant to downy mildew.
- Parris Island Cos: 65 days. An heirloom variety with mild-flavored, pale hearts.
- Rouge d’Hiver: 60 days. An heirloom red romaine from 1885, with bright leaves that darken in cooler weather.
- Marshall: 65 days. Known for its burgundy, almost purple leaves arranged in a tight, upright head.
- Freckles: 55 days. Displays vibrant green leaves with burgundy spots; both heat and bolt resistant.
Distinctive Lettuce Varieties
While there are many types of lettuce, it’s impossible to cover them all here. However, a few varieties stand out and are worth noting. These selections either combine features from other lettuce types or offer unique attributes that can enhance your garden.
- New Yu Mai: 60 days. This Taiwanese variety boasts sword-shaped leaves and a mildly bitter flavor.
- Australian Yellow: 55 days. This loose-leaf variety is a striking yellow-green, known for its heat tolerance and resistance to bolting.
- Taiwan Sword Leaf: 60 days. Also known as Oriental lettuce, it has long, pointed green leaves.
- Flashy Butter Oak: 55 days. This lettuce has oak-shaped leaves with a growth habit similar to cos, making it visually appealing in gardens.
- Rouxai: 47 days. Features dark red lobed leaves with a bright green center, offering high resistance to downy mildew and pests.
- Sanguine Ameliore: 60 days. Also known as Strawberry Cabbage, this heirloom from the 19th century is very pale yellow with rose-colored spots.
- Midnight Ruffles: 45 days. This variety is almost black with deeply crinkled leaves and pale centers.
How to Grow Lettuce?
Starting your lettuce properly is key to a plentiful harvest. Here’s how to get it right!
Lettuce thrives in cooler weather, so it’s crucial to time your planting to align with these temperatures. Lettuce seeds won’t sprout if soil temperatures exceed 80 degrees. While you might be able to cultivate lettuce throughout the year in some regions, in most areas, it’s best to sow your seeds as soon as the soil is workable.
You can begin growing lettuce plants indoors 4-6 weeks before the last expected frost and then transplant them once the soil is ready.
To ensure a steady supply of lettuce, plant seeds every two weeks. As temperatures rise, switch to varieties that are more resistant to heat.
As summer begins to cool down, it’s a great time to plant another batch of lettuce. Ensure the soil temperature has fallen below 80 degrees before sowing your seeds. In regions without severe winter freezes, you might be able to extend your growing season into the winter months as well.
Lettuce thrives in raised beds and can handle the milder sun of spring and fall, but it requires shade from the intense summer heat. If you plan to grow lettuce during the hotter months, choose a shaded area in your garden to protect it from harsh conditions.
While you can plant lettuce seeds in ground-level garden beds, be vigilant about pests like slugs and snails, which are known to feast on young lettuce plants and seedlings.
To start planting lettuce seeds, ensure your soil is well-prepared. It should be loose, well-draining, and thoroughly broken up. Large clumps of soil can impede germination and hinder lettuce growth. For optimal results, enrich your soil with compost or other nutrients about a week before planting.
Sow your lettuce seeds at a depth of 1/4″ to 1/2″ below the soil surface. You can either broadcast seeds for a wider area or plant them in rows based on your preference. If broadcasting, use a rake to cover the seeds with 1/4″ to 1/2″ of soil.
Once your lettuce seeds germinate and the plants start to grow, thin them based on their type. Space looseleaf varieties about 3-4″ apart, cos or other loose-headed types 8″ apart, and firm varieties 16″ apart.
After planting your lettuce seeds, water them gently and maintain regular watering every few days until they begin to germinate. To ensure a steady supply of lettuce throughout the season, sow seeds every 2-3 weeks.
Caring for Lettuce Plant
Growing lettuce is relatively straightforward in many places, akin to growing grass, but it can require more attention in hot climates. Here are essential guidelines for nurturing lettuce effectively!
Sunlight and Temperature Requirements
In colder months, lettuce can handle full sun exposure without issue. However, as the season heats up, direct sunlight can be too harsh for the plant’s fragile leaves. For optimal growth, I always plant lettuce in areas of the garden that are naturally shadier to make use of spaces that typically yield less produce. Lettuce does need a bit of sunlight each day, so aim for spots that avoid intense midday rays but still receive a couple of hours of morning or evening light.
Lettuce is most productive when the temperature is between 45 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Although some types are adaptable to warmer weather, they tend to bolt, or flower and seed, earlier if it gets too hot. When the thermometer climbs above 80 degrees, it’s crucial to keep your lettuce in the shade and ensure there is plenty of circulation to help cool the plants.
Irrigation and Moisture Management
Water is a critical component of lettuce, as it largely makes up the plant’s structure, emphasizing the need for consistent watering. Always keep the soil moist, avoiding any periods where it might dry out completely. If you notice the top inch of soil becoming dry, it’s important to water your plants thoroughly, reaching a depth of six inches to ensure the roots have adequate moisture.
Applying mulch around your lettuce can significantly help in maintaining soil moisture and increasing your crop’s success rate. Be sure to leave a gap of one to two inches around the lettuce stems when mulching to avoid direct contact with the leaves, which could lead to rot. This strategy not only helps retain moisture but also helps control weeds around your plants.
Soil Requirements
Lettuce grows rapidly and can deplete soil nutrients quickly, necessitating a soil rich in humus and high in nitrogen. The ideal soil for lettuce should drain well yet retain moisture without becoming waterlogged or compacted.
Before planting lettuce, it is beneficial to incorporate aged compost about 6 inches deep into the soil. Additionally, introducing alfalfa meal or other nitrogen-rich supplements roughly a week before planting can greatly enhance the soil’s nutrient levels. This preparation helps ensure that the lettuce has a strong start and continues to thrive as it grows.
Fertilizing Lettuce
Proper fertilization at the outset, before sowing, is crucial. To sustain healthy lettuce growth and continue planting cycles in your garden beds, it’s recommended to apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer as a side dressing a few times throughout the growing season. Aged compost rich in nitrogen is particularly effective for this purpose.
For those growing lettuce, liquid fertilizers are another viable option. It’s important to avoid applying liquid fertilizer directly to the lettuce leaves, especially if you plan to harvest soon. Instead, apply it directly to the soil surrounding the plants. Fish or seaweed-based emulsions and rich compost tea are excellent choices. While it’s generally safe to fertilize young plants or seedlings directly on the leaves, avoid doing so within five to seven days prior to harvesting.
Pruning Lettuce
Among lettuce varieties, it’s primarily the looseleaf types that require regular pruning. Unlike cos or head-forming lettuces, which are harvested whole, leafy lettuces benefit from periodic trimming to promote continuous leaf growth. It’s ideal to prune the leaves when they reach about 3-4 inches, although you can allow them to grow up to 6 inches without risking any bitterness in flavor.
When you prune, always cut the outer leaves and leave the inner leaves untouched. This method encourages the plant to produce new leaves from the center, which will eventually take the place of the older, pruned leaves.
You can cut back the entire lettuce plant to about 1-2 inches from the ground when it reaches a height of 3-6 inches, typically every 10-18 days. This approach is known as the “cut and come again” method, allowing the plant to quickly regrow and provide a steady yield.
If your lettuce plant starts to bolt, or produce a seed stalk, it’s advisable to remove it unless you are collecting seeds. Additionally, any leaves that are pest-damaged, wilted, or showing signs of disease should be pruned immediately. Avoid trying to continue growing lettuce once it has bolted, as the leaves will become bitter and less palatable.
Lettuce Propagation
Lettuce is propagated exclusively through seeds. If you are cultivating a single variety of lettuce, cross-pollination is not a concern, allowing you to save seeds for future planting. However, if you are growing multiple types of lettuce, as many gardeners do, it’s advisable to purchase new seeds for each growing season to avoid producing unpredictable and possibly undesirable hybrids.
If you choose to start your seeds indoors, transplanting lettuce into your garden beds is straightforward once the plants are sufficiently developed. Ensure that loose-leaf lettuce varieties are spaced at least 4 inches apart, cos or romaine lettuces at least 8 inches apart, and firm-headed lettuces between 12 and 16 inches apart to allow adequate room for growth.
Ensure your lettuce plants have sufficient space to thrive. For those growing lettuce in containers, consider using a tiered GreenStalk to maximize space efficiently. When planting, make sure the lettuce starts are not buried below the soil level in the pot—keep them level with the surrounding soil surface.
If your goal is to harvest baby leaves, you might be able to plant your loose-leaf lettuce varieties more closely. However, be vigilant in monitoring these closer plantings, as overcrowding can lead to rapid outbreaks of mildew or pest infestations.
How to Harvest and Store Lettuce ?
Growing, harvesting, and storing lettuce can be challenging because it doesn’t keep well for long. Continue reading to learn the best methods for harvesting and storing lettuce, and discover several strategies for using up any surplus lettuce you might have.
Harvesting Lettuce
The optimal time to harvest lettuce is early in the morning when the leaves are at their crispest. Cooler nighttime temperatures help the lettuce retain moisture and firm up. By afternoon, even the freshest leaf lettuce tends to soften.
For leaf lettuce, follow the harvesting method described in the “pruning” section above, ideally using a sharp pair of scissors. For head varieties, you can either trim the outer leaves for immediate use or wait until the entire head is fully developed before harvesting.
To harvest entire heads of Romaine or Iceberg lettuce, you have two options: either cut the lettuce at its base or remove the entire plant, including the roots. If you choose to cut, use a sharp knife to sever the head right at the soil level. This method may allow more leaves to sprout from the remaining base.
Removing the entire plant by the roots simplifies the process of preparing the space for a new batch of lettuce. This method is particularly useful for succession planting, as you can enhance the soil with additional compost and compost the old roots, making it ready for new plants.
Determining the right time to harvest your lettuce heads is straightforward: just give them a gentle squeeze. If the head compresses easily under your fingers, it’s not quite ready. Varieties like Cos or butterhead can be picked leaf by leaf or harvested whole when they feel semi-firm but not hard. Crisphead varieties, on the other hand, should be harvested once the head feels firm to the touch.
It’s advisable to harvest lettuce sooner rather than later. As lettuce ages, the leaves can become bitter and may turn tough or woody. Always keep an eye on the days to maturity noted on your seed packet and aim to harvest on or just before this date to ensure optimal flavor and texture.
Best Practices for Lettuce Storage
One of the challenges with lettuce, particularly with loose-leaf varieties, is that it tastes best when consumed fresh, ideally on the day it’s picked.
If you need to store loose-leaf lettuce for a short period, start by filling a bowl with cold or cool water. Immerse the lettuce leaves and gently agitate them to remove any dust or grit. This step is crucial for savoyed (crinkled) leaves, which tend to capture garden soil in their crevices.
After ensuring the leaves are thoroughly cleaned, which might require multiple rinses for especially dusty leaves, use a salad spinner to remove excess water. If a spinner isn’t available, allow the leaves to drain in a colander and then gently pat them dry with paper towels.
It’s crucial to make sure the leaf lettuce is completely dry before storage. Once dried, lay the leaves on paper towels to absorb any remaining moisture. Then, transfer them to a sealed plastic bag, pressing out as much air as possible. This method will help extend the freshness of your leaf lettuce for several days.
Romaine and crisphead lettuces are ideally used soon after harvesting but can also be stored effectively. If harvested by cutting at the base, a whole head of crisphead lettuce can be preserved by wrapping it in paper towels and placing it in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Cos lettuce can be stored in the same manner, either as a whole head or by separating it into individual leaves, similar to how you would store loose-leaf lettuce.
Should any stored lettuce begin to wilt, there’s an easy fix. Place the leaves in a bowl of ice water for about 15-30 minutes. This process will rehydrate the leaves, restoring their crispness.
Lettuce typically does not fare well with long-term storage methods. However, if you find yourself with wilting lettuce before you can use it in salads, consider quick culinary solutions like creamy lettuce soup or a stir-fry. Although not commonly cooked, lettuce can be used similarly to spinach or other leafy greens in cooking, offering a delicious side dish or a subtly sweet soup.
Some have experimented with dehydrating lettuce to create a powdered form for smoothies or power drinks. While this method might not impart significant flavor to your beverages, it could be a worthwhile option if you have an excess of lettuce to manage.
This method can also be used to attempt making lettuce “chips,” though they tend to crumble easily and might not be worth the effort; utilizing the lettuce in powdered form is generally simpler.
Keep in mind that dehydrated lettuce doesn’t rehydrate well, often resulting in a limp and unappealing texture. It is more effective to use it in its dried state.
Troubleshooting Guide for Common Problems
Growing lettuce is usually straightforward, but sometimes challenges arise. Here’s a list of common problems you might face and tips on how to address them.
Lettuce Growth Issues and Solutions
One frequent issue with growing lettuce is poor germination, often due to irregular or insufficient watering during the initial sprouting phase. For optimal germination, the soil needs to remain consistently moist throughout. Although some lettuce varieties naturally have lower germination rates, most should achieve around an 85% success rate, suggesting that improper watering is often to blame.
If you notice the edges of your lettuce leaves turning brown, you are likely dealing with tip burn, commonly triggered by uneven watering. Implementing a regular drip irrigation system can help minimize the occurrence of tip burn. Additionally, opting for cultivars that are more resistant to heat can help prevent this issue.
Monitor your lettuce plants closely on hot days. Signs of wilting likely indicate a need for water. While a fine mist can refresh lettuce during warm weather, ensure it is accompanied by thorough watering at the base to maintain adequate moisture levels.
Conversely, during the wetter seasons of spring and fall, wilting might indicate excessive water. Poor drainage can lead to root rot, which can damage or destroy lettuce plants. In mild weather, always check the soil moisture before watering to avoid overwatering and potentially harming your lettuce crop.
If your lettuce is turning yellow—and it’s not supposed to be—it’s likely lacking nitrogen. To remedy this, apply compost tea or a fish or seaweed emulsion fertilizer at the base of the plant, which should help it regain its green color.
To prevent bolting during hot weather, consider planting your lettuce in the shade of taller leafy plants like tomatoes, which can provide protection from intense sunlight. Ensure there’s adequate airflow around the plants so they can flourish in their shady environment. Alternatively, you can use a floating row cover to create shade, but keep the ends open to maintain proper ventilation.
If your lettuce has developed a bitter taste or a woody texture, it’s likely overgrown. Lettuce should be harvested when the leaves are still tender and flavorful to avoid bitterness. To ensure the best taste, harvest earlier and more regularly.
If you notice the crown of your lettuce beginning to stretch upwards, it’s on the verge of bolting and producing seeds. Once this happens, the lettuce is past its prime for eating and should be removed unless you intend to collect seeds from it.
If you live in a region with harsh, freezing winters, consider using a cold frame to provide extra warmth for your lettuce. Although many lettuce varieties are tolerant of cooler temperatures, consistent exposure to temperatures below 25 degrees can harm your plants, and a hard freeze can damage the leaves. If needed, you can move your lettuce indoors. Position the plants near a bright, indirect light source such as a window, and maintain a temperature range between 45-65 degrees for optimal growth.
Pests
Aphids are a frequent problem for lettuces and most other green, leafy vegetables. These small pests feed by sucking the sap from tender leaves and stems. To tackle aphids, spray all parts of your lettuce with neem oil. You can also plant aphid-repelling herbs such as chives or garlic nearby. Additionally, herbs like cilantro or dill can attract beneficial insects that prey on aphids.
Applying neem oil thoroughly can also help control thrips, another sap-sucking pest that can cause scarring, yellowing, or wilting in your lettuce plants.
Flea beetles are known to chew holes in lettuce leaves, which is undesirable if you’re growing lettuce for consumption. To combat these small, hopping beetles, apply a spinosad spray.
Cutworms pose another threat by cutting through the base of young lettuce shoots or seedlings. Although using plant collars and similar barriers can help prevent these caterpillars, I suggest using a bacillus spray. This spray targets and eliminates the larval stages of cutworm moths as well as other caterpillars, protecting your lettuce plants.
Root knot nematodes and other harmful nematode species can infest the soil around your plants, attacking the roots. This leads to knotting, scarring, and the formation of large nodules on the roots, which hinders the plant’s ability to absorb essential nutrients. To combat these pests, introduce beneficial nematodes to your soil. These helpful nematodes will target and eliminate the harmful varieties, and they can also destroy pupae in the soil, providing additional protection against cutworms and other soil-dwelling pests.
Slugs and snails can cause significant damage to your lettuce by eating large chunks out of the leaves. To keep these pests at bay, consider using bait as a deterrent. Granular bait can be scattered around your lettuce, luring the slugs and snails away from your plants, and causing them to die after consumption. Alternatively, you can half-bury a container filled with stale beer in your lettuce bed. The slugs and snails are attracted to the scent of the beer and will drown upon entering the container.
Not all lettuce predators are insects; animals like rabbits, woodchucks, and deer are often attracted to your lettuce beds and can quickly devour your plants. To protect your lettuce from these larger garden visitors, a simple and effective solution is to use floating row covers over your lettuce bed. This not only deters the animals but also helps keep out insect pests as well!
Diseases
Damping off is a common early disease that can affect lettuce, caused by a soilborne fungus that flourishes in cool, damp, and cloudy conditions. This disease causes seedlings to wilt and collapse. To prevent damping off, ensure your plants are spaced adequately to allow good airflow, and reduce the frequency of watering to avoid overly damp soil conditions.
Sclerotinia is another fungal disease that can affect lettuce, with sclerotinia stem rot being the most common type for this crop. It often presents as a white mold along the stems and base of the plant. To manage sclerotinia, use the same prevention strategies as for damping off: space your plants sufficiently to ensure good airflow and cut back on watering frequency. If you notice any infected plants, remove and destroy them immediately—do not add them to your compost.
Pseudomonas bacteria can lead to base rot and leaf rot in lettuce, as depicted in the image above. If you notice these symptoms, remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Treat the remaining plants with a copper fungicide to slow the spread of the bacteria and protect the rest of your crop. For future plantings, rotate your lettuce to a different location to prevent recurrence.
Downy mildew presents as light green to yellow spots on the upper side of lettuce leaves, with white mold developing on the underside of these spots. Remove and dispose of any affected leaves to prevent further infection. To protect the rest of the plant, apply a copper fungicide to minimize the spread of the disease.
Lettuce necrotic yellows and lettuce mosaic virus are both diseases spread by aphids. To prevent your plants from contracting these viruses, keep your lettuce aphid-free by regularly spraying the leaves with neem oil, which helps repel these pests. Additionally, using floating row covers can provide a barrier to protect your lettuce from aphids and other harmful insects.
FAQs
How long does it take for lettuce to grow?
The growing time for lettuce varies by variety, typically ranging from 30 to 70 days.
What are the best conditions for growing lettuce?
Lettuce thrives with plenty of light, consistent watering, and a bit of fertilizer—these are the key elements for successful growth.
Does lettuce require full sun?
Most lettuce varieties thrive in full sun, so it’s generally best to plant them in sunny locations. However, some varieties are bred to tolerate shadier conditions.
Does lettuce need a lot of water?
Lettuce requires a moderate amount of water and can typically follow the same watering schedule as other spring and fall annuals.
Can lettuce grow well in pots?
Yes, lettuce can be grown easily in pots, grow bags, and other containers due to its shallow root system.
When is the best time to plant lettuce?
Plant lettuce about two weeks before the last expected frost in spring and around 4 to 6 weeks before the first frost in fall.
How many heads of lettuce should I plant?
Typically, it’s recommended to plant no more than one head of lettuce per square foot. However, you might be able to space them a bit closer to increase your yield. Refer to the spacing guidelines on your seed packet and consult the Planting section of this guide to see if your butterhead or loose-leaf varieties can be grown more densely in your garden beds.
How can you cut lettuce to encourage continuous growth?
Harvest by trimming only the outer leaves and leaving at least one-third of the plant intact. This technique works best for butterhead and loose-leaf lettuce varieties, as head lettuces typically do not allow for selective harvesting of outer leaves.